Last week I was in Brazil to present the wines of Lagar de Bezana, together with Rafael Tirado, owner and winemaker of Laberinto.
Thanks to all the people that received us so well! It was truly a pleasure to meet people so enthusiastic about food and wine.
On 28 October, the newspaper Agazeta published the following article on our wines. Many thanks to Boris of Ville du Vin to send it to us.
martes, 30 de octubre de 2012
martes, 2 de octubre de 2012
A week in the life of a winemaker
I was recently asked what a typical day for me looks like at
the vineyard. There are days that I hardly get out of the office, or when I
have to go to Santiago or somewhere else. So this post is about a week in the life of the winemaker of
Lagar de Bezana.
Monday
After a week off, to celebrate Chile’s independence,
personnel returned on Monday. In the morning, I walked through the vineyard
with Miguel, the vineyard manager, to see what had been happening in our
absence. Of all the varieties, only Petit Verdot was actively budding.
Especially Cabernet was giving few signs of activity yet. The weeds have been
growing a little, and some are difficult to control, so this week we’ll control
them by hand or with herbicides, depending on which part of the vineyard
they’re in.
I then went quickly to Santiago, as I had a borrowed filter
that had to be returned to it’s rightful owner. Taking advantage of the trip, I
took 30 cases of wine and several documents to our head office in Santiago,
where I also met Felipe Kaufmann, an extremely friendly Wine Advisor from
Brazil who loved our wines. He promised to come and visit the cellar during
summer.
On my way back from Santiago I bought a few rose bushes for
the vineyard at Ludwig Sehrt, a german-chilean nursery. People always ask why
we have roses growing in the vineyard. They’re only there because they look
beautiful, but some people think they can alert early for an attack of powdery
mildew. The variety I bought, Puzsta, is extremely susceptible to mildew, so I
had them planted near the office, to see if they really get powdery mildew
earlier than the vines and how much time we have between an attack in the roses
and in the vineyard.
I was back at the office only at 4:30h. Santiago is
extremely full of traffic and it takes ages to get from one part of the city to
the other. I first went to see how the labeling of was going, as tomorrow we
have to export a few pallets of wine to Korea. I then had a look at the lab
results from the week before, to see if
malolactic fermentations of the 2012 vintage are finishing and answered
a few more mails.
After work I drove to Rancagua to an appointment with a
physiotherapist (my shoulder has been hurting a lot) and then a while to the
gym, before returning home at 11:00 h for a quick meal and then to bed.
Tuesday
We were busy all morning with the export to Korea. The
forklift was still out of order, so I had to ask a neighbor to borrow his for a
while. We assembled the cases of wine on the pallets and put them on the truck, which took
almost all morning! The documents take a while too, as these have to be done
very precisely.
Meanwhile, the girls that were busy tying down the shoots
advised me that they had finished, which officially ended this year’s pruning.
I had expected them to be busy all week, but the little machines we bought last
year have made the job a lot easier and quicker.
After a lot of administrative work after lunch, my brain
felt a little burned, so before the day was over I went to see the results of
the cover crops we’ve sown between the rows in a corner of the vineyard. The
goal of a cover crop is to add or recycle nutrients and organic material to the
soil, avoid erosion (not our case) or decrease vigor of the vineyards. That is
why we did the experiment in a vigorous part of the vineyard, in case the vines
would be really affected. Anyhow, they haven’t come up very well, probably
because we were a little late with sowing and the seed bed wasn’t well
prepared. Next year we’ll definitely continue the experiment.
After work I went to the physiotherapist again and then to
the swimming pool for an hour. Today has been the first really warm day of the
year, so the swimming pool was a welcome refreshment. I was a little tired
after that so I got some Chinese food for dinner on my way back from Rancagua,
before going to bed.
Wednesday
Since the forklift was still not working and a tractor had
broken down on Monday, I went with Miguel to Rancagua, to see if we could find
the spare parts we needed. I also went to the bank, to get a new checkbook and
to the supermarket, to buy silk paper to wrap a few bottles that had their back
labels damaged while being transported in their cases. This took all morning,
as the spare parts were impossible to find.
On the way back we stopped in the village to order sand and gravel,
to repair the decanter pools. Before the water is used for irrigation, it has
to pass through two pools, to let the sand and other particles drop to the
bottom. This is to avoid the drippers getting obstructed. In the past, people
had destroyed this system, as they didn’t probably understand it. Since a lot
of drippers get obstructed every year, we had decided to restore this system,
which is more work than we expected!
After a late lunch, I answered my e-mails and went to the
vineyard to try the new hoes I brought with me from Holland. One of our workers
had been working all day to put stems back on these tools, as I was able to
bring only the metal parts with me on the airplane one month ago. You must be
asking yourself: why does this guys bring hoes with him from Holland? The
reason is simple: there are no decent hoes to be found in Chile, especially no
hoes that don’t break your back! Anyway, they seem to be working fine, so
tomorrow we’ll put the to good use.
After work, to the physiotherapist again, and on my way back
I bought some artichokes for dinner. They’re in full season now, and sold along
the motorway between Codegua and Rancagua. Delicious!
Thursday
The grafter called early this morning to say he wasn’t
coming until Saturday, as it was raining. It wasn’t raining here, just a little
foggy, but he still wasn’t coming… I was busy with mails and other office work
when Claudio Cereghino dropped by. Claudio is a good frend who works for
Nadalié, a cooperage I have bought my 600 litre barrels at. We tasted through
several tanks and barrels, and the wines are looking a bit disjointed at the
moment. Air temperatures are rising and malolactic fermentations are resuming
after a cold winter. This makes the wines become cloudier again and taste a
little strange. Nothing to be worried about, but the wines that are finished
have to be analysed and racked clean from barrel to barrel. Sulfites are added
to protect against oxidations during summer.
With Miguel, we then went to Rancagua again, for the now
famous but inexistent spare parts and to rent a machine to break the cement on
the decanter pools.
On our way back, we had lunch at the famous “Mini”
restaurant, formerly “Mini Sheraton”! Excellent food, and not expensive at all.
No wonder why I see so many cars parked there every day.
In the afternoon we worked on the salaries that will be paid
next week. Many people get paid additionally for what they produce every month,
which is a lot of work to calculate.
After work I went to the gym and after dinner had a long
read before going to bed.
Friday
The girl that works at the lab called early to be picked up
from the bus station. Since the dogs seemed very hungry, I fed them, although
the guard normally does this. I then heard that the guard had given them food
already, so they got fed twice. Lucky them! They layed basking in the sun for
the rest of the morning, digesting all this food.
After discussing todays lab work, people from the office in
Santiago showed up early, to install a new water pump. Since we’re part of a
radio station that has a very capable electrician, I asked him to install a new
pump, as the old one is showing signs of wanting to give up the gost. I knew
the installation was not very good, but apparently it was so bad we ran the risk
of getting electrocuted any moment! They ended up being busy all day.
Having a look at the pools, I found the guy breaking the
cement working without ear plugs. It is difficult to make people understand
it’s in their own best interest to protect themselves, and can be very
tiresome.
We then discussed with Miguel the possibility of releasing
chicken in the vineyard to control weeds. The warm weather has really favored
their growth, but we’re trying to use as little herbicide as possible. One of
our workers has recently acquired 100 chicken, and chicken love anything green.
This would mean having to close off part of the vineyard with nets and building
a mobile hen house, to house them at night. I inquired after the price of nets,
and Miguel will work on project Mobile Hen House!
I also coordinated with the grafter to come during the
weekend. The vineyard where our Grenache and Mouvèdre is planted still has a
few rows of petit Verdot. We want these plants grafted with Grenache, as the
Petit Verdot wasn’t doing to well here. It also eases work in the vineyard, as
Petit Verdot has very different needs compared to Grenache, when it comes to
pruning, spraying, irrigation etc.
The people have been lowering the foliage wires in the
vineyard. As the shoots grow, we keep them upright with these wires, but before
they have grown enough, we don’t want them to get tangled up in the wires. That
is why they are moved close to the ground after pruning.
After lunch, at around 3:00 h I went to Santiago, to take
samples of wine to the lab, to confirm that malolactic fermentation is really
finished on some wines. I took some cases of wine to the office and picked up
my mail, before going to a wine fair at the Plaza San Francisco Hotel, where I
was pouring wine all afternoon and night together with other members of MOVI,
the “Movimiento de Viñateros Independientes,” an organization of small wineries
we belong to. Since I hadn’t had dinner, the people of the hotel were kind
enough to serve some snacks and sandwiches. There were lots of people, and
apart from the customers, I had a few chats with other members and exchanged
some bottles of wine with Mauro von Siebenthal, of the Von Siebenthal winery in
Aconcagua. His wines are excellent, so make sure to look out for them, as well
as Lagar’s when shopping.
That night I stayed at a hotel in Santiago, as the fair was
only over by 11:30 h and after working fifteen and a half hours, I didn’t feel
like driving back to Codegua.
I’ll leave out the details of the weekend, as I gathered
with a few friends, and probably had a bit too much to eat and drink! Sunday
evening I drove back to Codegua, for another week of work.
martes, 14 de agosto de 2012
Pruning and replanting
After the rains at the beginning of June,
weather improved so pruning got well under way under sunny and cool conditions.
Our vines were formerly cordon-trained and spur pruned, but changed to cane
pruning a few years ago. This makes pruning slower, as there are often large
chunks of old wood that have to be sawn off. As the wood of Cabernet Sauvignon
is very sensitive to fungal diseases, especially when large cuts are made, I tried
to find ways to avoid the use of a saw.
At pruning you leave enough buds of last
year’s wood that you consider adequate. More buds means more fruit and less
vigorous shoots, which prematurely ages the vine. Too few buds yield less fruit
and more leaves. The leaves will shade the fruit, so the taste will be greener.
At the same time, you have to think in advance, about where you want next
year’s fruitful canes. If you leave only canes, you’ll need a bit of luck to
find a cane in the right position the following year. A spur will yield one or
two canes, so this is a practical way to ensure good canes for next year’s
pruning.
I decided to leave a few spurs per plant
(again) that should yield next year’s canes. This avoids much sawing, as you
use up the whole extent of the plant: canes wherever you seem fit, and spurs
wherever you want next year’s canes, instead of selecting the two or three best
canes and sawing the rest off. Hopefully this will work out, as future harvests
depend on this.
The question of spurs over canes can become
an almost doctrinal one, with firm defenders of either system. In my view, some
varieties, like Grenache or Syrah, need only short spurs, as longer canes will
bear more fruit than the plant can handle. Others, like Carmenère or table
grapes like Thompson Seedless, need long canes to bear any fruit at all.
Cabernet is somewhere in between. Especially in our case, with older plants derived
from cuttings from other, old, vineyards, canes are the only way to obtain a decent
crop. The plants have not been selected for fruitfulness, so yields tend to be
lower and less predictable than on plants derived from clonal stock.
That question over, we turned our attention
to the soil. We started by spreading manure in the vineyard, especially in
those parts that seem to be more in need of it. We bought the manure earlier
this year from farms around us, and it had composted really well. We’ll also be
trying several cover crops this year. Since we have no experience with them,
we’ll start out with a few trials. Cover crops are low growing plants that
cover the soil between the vines during the year or only during a part of it.
They are considered beneficial for the soil, avoiding erosion, adding organic
matter and increasing soil life. On the other hand, they can compete with the
vines for water and nutrients, which is potentially harmful. The issue is to
find a balance between the two: enough vigor on the vines and as much cover of
the soil as possible.
To grow our cover crops we’ve selected
three types of seeds. The first one is a mixture of native grasses that grow in
winter and dry up in summer, for which I have high hopes. The second mixture is
a classic: oats and vetch. The oats add much organic matter when ploughed into
the soil in spring and vetch fixes nitrogen, the most important nutrient for
grapevines and almost any other plant. The third is mustard, which grows
vigorously, so it increases organic matter in the soil when ploughed in, but
also antagonizes nematodes that live in the soil and feed on vine roots. The
effect is not studied enough, but certainly worth a try. We’ll also be adding
some wild flowers, for diversity and beauty. Of course these will be sown close
to the entrance, where everyone can see them!
The manure and cover cops lead me to the
third issue that has been busying my mind during the last few weeks: the one of
organic, biodynamic and sustainable agriculture.
Often people ask us if we haven’t
considered switching to organic or biodynamic agriculture. Our consultant,
Cristóbal Undurraga, manages his own vineyards biodynamically, so he would
certainly look favorably upon such a change in our vineyards. On the other
hand, I feel that at least a limited use of pesticides is justified when trying
to obtain better grapes. I’ve known a few producers that work their vineyards
according to organic or biodynamic principles, but will use occasionally some pesticide
when strictly needed. Even if the would not use pestcides, they don’t feel the
need to certify organic or biodynamic practices, as their customers know and
trust the quality of their wines. A producer I much admire for this, and the
quality of his wines, is Pierre Gassmann of Rolly-Gassmann in Alsace.
Another eye opener was the book “The
omnivore’s dilemma” by …. . In it, the author describes different food
production systems. It appears that many organic systems have become so large
in scale, and the rules imposed can be so non-sensical, that the whole spirit
behind organics (locally produced, seasonal, healthy food that doesn’t rely on
inputs from outside the farm such as pesticides or fertilizers) has gone lost.
The same goes for biodynamics: the founder, Rudolph Steiner, was against the
drinking of alcohol and wanted his followers to live in small, self-sustainable
farming communities. Now try explaining that to somebody who wants a glass of
Lagar de Bezana’s Aluvión after a hard day’s work at the office in Manhattan!
I think the processes we use are becoming
more and more environmentally friendly and sustainable, and it would be
interesting to find a certification for that. For the time being, you’ll have
to take my word that we’re trying our utmost to keep our workers, wines, vines and
soil healthy. Otherwise, come and find it out for yourself!
lunes, 25 de junio de 2012
Beginning of winter at Lagar
This post is written in Santa Fe, New
Mexico, where I am to present our wines to our importer in the USA. They have
been very well received in San Diego, despite a huge offer of wines from all
over the world in the market here. The people are really friendly and the
weather has been great, which is a welcome change from the chilean winter!
It has been raining quite a lot in Chile
this year, which is always a good thing, except if you have to work under it. We
have had some night frosts and the vines have lost all their leaves now, so
we’re preparing winter pruning. Since we like doing experiments very much, this
year will see some new things in the vineyard. First of all, we’ll be making are
own dressing for pruning wounds. The University of California –Chilean
universities are very silent on the subject- recommends other ingredients than
are available in ready-made dressings, which made us decide to make our own.
This also allows us to control the stickiness and adhesion of the dressing, so
we can obtain just the kind of product we like to work with. We could even
change the color if we’d like to!
Since most of our vines stem from a
selection of cuttings from old vineyards rather than certified, clonal plant
material, some of the plants have diseases, and it is important to avoid them
spreading, hence the importance of pruning wound dressings. To try to rescue the
diseased plants we’ll cut the bad parts off (normally almost the entire plant)
and split the remaining trunk in half. This might help to dry out any fungi,
whereas the plant itself will sprout again from lower down the base. This
technique was described by the Roman writer Columella in the 2nd
century, but was largely forgotten since only grafted plants are used in most
wine producing countries. If you’d split a grafted plant, you’d probably end up
separating the graft from the rootstock, which would leave you with only the
rootstock, which doesn’t produce grapes. Fortunately, our vines are all
own-rooted, so we can still use the old books and see what they have to teach
us.
Another solution would be to take out the
diseased or dead plants and burying a shoot of the adjacent, healthy plant in
its place. The buried shoot will set root and bear fruit after two years: a
technique known as layering. The new plant can benefit from the roots of the
mother plant for a few years, before it’s cut off. If you’d plant a new one in place
of a missing one, the existing plants would simply not allow it to grow, as
their roots have colonized most of the soil and their canopies cast shade over
the new plant.
This year we’re also applying lime sulfur
to the vineyard. This winter spray is obtained by boiling lime and sulfur
together to obtain a reddish, foul smelling liquid. Since only lime and sulfur
are used in its manufacturing it’s allowed in organic and even biodynamic
agriculture and is probably one of the oldest home remedies still in use.
Applying this product will disinfect the vineyard during the winter, allowing
it a clean start in spring, with much less residues of insect eggs, larvae and
fungi.
Cellar-wise, we were still busy emptying
the last tanks before I left, filling barrels with this year’s wine. One of the
“toys” I’m bringing home is a “racking wand,” which caused much laughter in
California, despite the fact that it was invented just there. “Racking” means
taking the clean wine out of a barrel and placing it into a new one. Ideally
this is done by gravity, by siphoning the wine from one barrel to another one
below it. However, if the barrel you want to empty is the lowest one, you’re
forced to use a pump. A pump will inevistably beat and oxygentae the wine,
which I not so good. A racking wand puts pressure on the barrel, gently pushing
the wine out through a stainless steel cane. While flowing out, a sightglass
allows you verify that the lees or sediments stay behind, so they can be washed
out when the barrel is cleaned. A clever little invention, that we’ll put to
good use.
Just before I left, our moveable tank
heater went up in flames. A bolt hadn’t been tightened well enough, and the
leaking gas caught fire! Fortunately nobody was injured, but it is a good
reminder that safety elements and procedures cannot be neglected, and I’ll see
about that when I return. Even in the vineyard, pruning shears, tractors and
the likes can cause serious injury, which can be easily avoided when a little
care is taken.
The building where the barrels are kept
needs some re-engineering as well. The roof leaks in a few places and the
cement floor is in a very bad state. So when it rains, instead of having to
walk around in the mud, my staff can start working on removing the floor and
putting a new one in place. Most
of the men are very practical when it comes to using their DIY skills, and we’d
rather do it ourselves than having to argue with a builder. Not that I have
anything against builders, of course, but everywhere I’ve been, I have seen
difficulties to communicate precisely what you expect from one another and what
the result will look like. I guess most of you will get the idea…
The harvest hadn’t finished yet when we got
the funds to rip out part of the vineyard and replant it. I might have reported
on the Syrah decline earlier: aftyer 10-15 years the plants start to grow less,
the bark comes off in flakes and eventually they die. Since our Syrah plots are
some of the oldest in Chile, they’ve started to show the symptoms and have
become less productive, so it’s time to start replanting them. We took the
opportunity to replant some Malbec, which is a variety we hadn’t tried yet, but
promises good results in Chile. It could add extra complexity to our Aluvión
red blend in the future, or maybe be used in another blend or even varietal.
One hectare to start with seems like a good start. Next year I’d like to try
some Tannat too, if I can get some of it. Blends are a great way to showcase
the properties of soil, climate and winemaking skills of a certain area and
winery, and the more varieties you have to work with, the better.
So all in all it has been a busy month.
Once the pruning is well under way I’ll be able to go on the next trip, which
will take me to Holland, Norway and Sweden. I’m looking forward to that too,
but first there is some work to be done!
miércoles, 23 de mayo de 2012
Resultados de cata de Josh Raynolds
Acabamos de recibir los resultados de la cata de vinos Chilenos de Josh Raynolds para la revista Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar. En general le fue bastante bien a los vinos chilenos. Hubo unos pocos vinos arriba de 90 puntos y lo que más asignó fueron 93 puntos.
A nuestros socios de MOVI les fue muy buen en general, y demuestra que es más factible hacer grandes vinos a escala pequeña, en forma altamente individual y con una preocupación directa en todas las etapas del proceso. Nosotros mismos estamos muy contentos con los 91 puntos para los dos vinos que mandamos. A continuación las notas de cata, traducidas libremente:
2008 Syrah Single Vineyard Limited Edition Cachapoal Valley Morado intenso. Moras, cassis, chocolate amargo y violetas en nariz, junto con notas especiadas exóticas. Denso, concentrado, dulce y sin asperezas, ofrece muchas notas a berries negros y azules, violetas y pan de especies, todo levantado por una acidez harmoniosa. Termina con taninos amplios y suaves, una sugerencia de violeta confita y una densidad y final notables. 91
A nuestros socios de MOVI les fue muy buen en general, y demuestra que es más factible hacer grandes vinos a escala pequeña, en forma altamente individual y con una preocupación directa en todas las etapas del proceso. Nosotros mismos estamos muy contentos con los 91 puntos para los dos vinos que mandamos. A continuación las notas de cata, traducidas libremente:
2008 Syrah Single Vineyard Limited Edition Cachapoal Valley Morado intenso. Moras, cassis, chocolate amargo y violetas en nariz, junto con notas especiadas exóticas. Denso, concentrado, dulce y sin asperezas, ofrece muchas notas a berries negros y azules, violetas y pan de especies, todo levantado por una acidez harmoniosa. Termina con taninos amplios y suaves, una sugerencia de violeta confita y una densidad y final notables. 91
2008 Aluvion Gran Reserva Cachapoal Valley (compuesto de 63% syrah y 37% cabernet sauvignon): Rubí intenso. Aromas ahumadas y altamente perfumadas a cassis y violeta fresca, que aumentan en complejidad por un dejo a turba o tierra húmeda. Amplio y jugoso en el paladar, entrega sabores intensos de guinda ácida, ciruela quemada, aceitunas y pimienta machacada. Las notas a humo y violeta continúan en un final largo, especiado y de gran presición. 91
Tasting results from Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
The tasting results from Josh Raynolds, for Stephen Tanzer International Wine Cellar, just came in. In general, they were quite good. There were a few wines scoring over 90 points and the best ones got up to 93.
Our partners of MOVI did very well in comparison to the larger wineries. This shows that great wines are almost always made on a small scale, in a highly individual way and with a direct involvement of the people in charge in all the processes that involve the growing and making of wine. In that context, we were especially happy with the 91 points we got for both of the wines we sent in. The tasting notes are very eloquent, and show exactly those characteristics that we think typical for the Upper Cachapoal: fresh black fruit flavors, good intensity and soft tannins with even some hint of sweetness.
2008 Syrah Single Vineyard Limited Edition Cachapoal Valley Dark purple. Blackberry, cassis, bitter chocolate and violet on the nose, along with exotic spicy notes. Dense, concentrated, sweet and seamless, offering pliant black and blue fruit, violet and spicecake flavors lifted by harmonious acidity. Finishes with broad, smooth tannins, a suggestion of candied violet, and noteworthy density and length. 91
Our partners of MOVI did very well in comparison to the larger wineries. This shows that great wines are almost always made on a small scale, in a highly individual way and with a direct involvement of the people in charge in all the processes that involve the growing and making of wine. In that context, we were especially happy with the 91 points we got for both of the wines we sent in. The tasting notes are very eloquent, and show exactly those characteristics that we think typical for the Upper Cachapoal: fresh black fruit flavors, good intensity and soft tannins with even some hint of sweetness.
2008 Syrah Single Vineyard Limited Edition Cachapoal Valley Dark purple. Blackberry, cassis, bitter chocolate and violet on the nose, along with exotic spicy notes. Dense, concentrated, sweet and seamless, offering pliant black and blue fruit, violet and spicecake flavors lifted by harmonious acidity. Finishes with broad, smooth tannins, a suggestion of candied violet, and noteworthy density and length. 91
2008 Aluvion Gran Reserva Cachapoal Valley (made from 63% syrah and 37% cabernet
sauvignon): Inky ruby. Smoky, highly perfumed aromas of cassis and fresh violet are complicated by a
peaty, earthy quality. Broad and sappy on the palate, delivering pungent flavors of bitter cherry, singed
plum, olive and cracked pepper. The smoke and violet notes carry through a long, spicy, sharply focused
finish. 91
Stephen Tanzer International Wine Cellar 162, may/june 2012: Best new releases from Chile
Stephen Tanzer International Wine Cellar 162, may/june 2012: Best new releases from Chile
End of harvest
When I wrote the last entry, there were still some grapes to be harvested. These are all in the tanks now, which was duly celebrated last Friday with all our staff. The weather was fine, so we did a barbecue in front of the cellar. Since Monday 21 May is a public holiday in Chile, we had an extra day to recover, before starting to work again on tuesday. Only the cellar master and I had to work a little over the weekend, because a few tanks are still fermenting.
With all the grapes in, it was time to look at yields, which were very decent: 8500 kg/ha on the Syrah and a little less, slightly over 7000 kg/ha for Cabernet Sauvignon. This translates to about 60 and 50 hl/ha, which doesn't seem excessive at all.
The last grapes to be harvested were Carmenère, as usual, and the little Grenache and Mourvèdre that we have. All of this was done under beautiful weather, and we've had rain only once until now. This weekend more rain is announced, but that can't harm us any more! By the time we harvested these grapes, the leaves were beginning to yellow, and by now, almost all the vineyard is looking yellow, although the process was slow this year. Retaining green leaves this late in the season allows the plants to build up reserves to survive the winter and bud evenly and with a lot of energy next spring.
Some of the tanks have been drained and pressed off now, and the wines still look great. Not only lots of color, but also some sort of natural sweetness that is hard to explain. It has nothing to do with sugar, as all the wines we produce are dry, which means that there is less than 2 g/l of sugar in the wine, which is imperceptible.
The end of fermentation was slow this year, and it took one tank a week to drop from 4 to 1.6 g/l of sugar, but that is fine, as long as it keeps fermenting. I've heard of a lot of stuck fermentations this year, which is a real nuisance to a winemaker. A stuck fermentation can reward you with a really unctuous and complex wine, as long as volatile acidity doesn't go up too fast. This is a real danger, so most of us prefer a tank that ferments to dryness without too much trouble.
Our custom-made tank heater, a moveable water boiler that circulates hot water through a double wall around the tank, worked like a charm. We spent much less on gas this year than last year, as we don't have to heat all the water in the cooling/heating system, but just the littlewater needed for every tank individually.
Meanwhile, in the vineyard, we're grubbing up 2 hectares of Syrah this year. Syrah suffers from decline, a disease that is very specific to this varietal, and especially some clones of Syrah have been proven to be very susceptible. The causes are still unknown, but for some reason the trunk and the bark start to split, shoot growth becomes stunted and the plant eventually dies. In our case, about 50% of the older blocks of Syrah clone 99 is affected, and about 10% of the plants is dead, so it's time to replace the whole block. It is virtually impossible replant only the affected vines, as the existing ones will not let the new plants grow, so it's all or nothing. We're going to replant with a little Malbec, which reportedly does very well in our type of soil, and some more Cabernet, which does extremely well.
Before we start pruning we'll also apply the manure we have bought at the farms surrounding us. Most of them were happy to get rid of their cows' and horses' droppings, and for us its great material to improve the fertility and structure of the soil. Instead of using chemical fertilizer, this stuff adds more life and trace elements to the soil. This year we'll try lime as well, as this also releases nutrients and improves the structure of the soil. Another thing we'll do is to sow cover crops between the rows, which also increase life in the soil and enhance long-term fertility. In the short term, cover crops compete for water and nutrients with the vines, so we'll start on the more vigorous blocks and observe the effects, before covering the whole vineyard.
The weather is really getting cold now. As I'm writing this, the sun is shining, but warms very little. Since my office is facing away from the sun, it feels even colder. I'm almost through the firewood I bought last month, so it's time to chop a few trees down. Before we start pruning there's hopefully some time left to do this, and there are plenty of eucalyptus trees in a corner behind the vineyard.
The good weather last weekend made me ride by motorcycle to Coya, a quaint mineworker's village up in the Andes above Rancagua, the largest city nearby. I guess I can do with a break, now the wines are almost all finished, so I'm looking forward to traveling to the USA (California and New Mexico) in June to meat the people of Vino del Sol, who are selling our wines there. Yesterday I got my new passport, so everything is ready!
With all the grapes in, it was time to look at yields, which were very decent: 8500 kg/ha on the Syrah and a little less, slightly over 7000 kg/ha for Cabernet Sauvignon. This translates to about 60 and 50 hl/ha, which doesn't seem excessive at all.
The last grapes to be harvested were Carmenère, as usual, and the little Grenache and Mourvèdre that we have. All of this was done under beautiful weather, and we've had rain only once until now. This weekend more rain is announced, but that can't harm us any more! By the time we harvested these grapes, the leaves were beginning to yellow, and by now, almost all the vineyard is looking yellow, although the process was slow this year. Retaining green leaves this late in the season allows the plants to build up reserves to survive the winter and bud evenly and with a lot of energy next spring.
Some of the tanks have been drained and pressed off now, and the wines still look great. Not only lots of color, but also some sort of natural sweetness that is hard to explain. It has nothing to do with sugar, as all the wines we produce are dry, which means that there is less than 2 g/l of sugar in the wine, which is imperceptible.
The end of fermentation was slow this year, and it took one tank a week to drop from 4 to 1.6 g/l of sugar, but that is fine, as long as it keeps fermenting. I've heard of a lot of stuck fermentations this year, which is a real nuisance to a winemaker. A stuck fermentation can reward you with a really unctuous and complex wine, as long as volatile acidity doesn't go up too fast. This is a real danger, so most of us prefer a tank that ferments to dryness without too much trouble.
Our custom-made tank heater, a moveable water boiler that circulates hot water through a double wall around the tank, worked like a charm. We spent much less on gas this year than last year, as we don't have to heat all the water in the cooling/heating system, but just the littlewater needed for every tank individually.
Meanwhile, in the vineyard, we're grubbing up 2 hectares of Syrah this year. Syrah suffers from decline, a disease that is very specific to this varietal, and especially some clones of Syrah have been proven to be very susceptible. The causes are still unknown, but for some reason the trunk and the bark start to split, shoot growth becomes stunted and the plant eventually dies. In our case, about 50% of the older blocks of Syrah clone 99 is affected, and about 10% of the plants is dead, so it's time to replace the whole block. It is virtually impossible replant only the affected vines, as the existing ones will not let the new plants grow, so it's all or nothing. We're going to replant with a little Malbec, which reportedly does very well in our type of soil, and some more Cabernet, which does extremely well.
Before we start pruning we'll also apply the manure we have bought at the farms surrounding us. Most of them were happy to get rid of their cows' and horses' droppings, and for us its great material to improve the fertility and structure of the soil. Instead of using chemical fertilizer, this stuff adds more life and trace elements to the soil. This year we'll try lime as well, as this also releases nutrients and improves the structure of the soil. Another thing we'll do is to sow cover crops between the rows, which also increase life in the soil and enhance long-term fertility. In the short term, cover crops compete for water and nutrients with the vines, so we'll start on the more vigorous blocks and observe the effects, before covering the whole vineyard.
The weather is really getting cold now. As I'm writing this, the sun is shining, but warms very little. Since my office is facing away from the sun, it feels even colder. I'm almost through the firewood I bought last month, so it's time to chop a few trees down. Before we start pruning there's hopefully some time left to do this, and there are plenty of eucalyptus trees in a corner behind the vineyard.
The good weather last weekend made me ride by motorcycle to Coya, a quaint mineworker's village up in the Andes above Rancagua, the largest city nearby. I guess I can do with a break, now the wines are almost all finished, so I'm looking forward to traveling to the USA (California and New Mexico) in June to meat the people of Vino del Sol, who are selling our wines there. Yesterday I got my new passport, so everything is ready!
Suscribirse a:
Entradas (Atom)